Ruby Slippers Would Take Me To Dunedin

It turns out the farther "Down Undah" you go, the more beautiful and idyllic this country becomes.

At least, that's how I see it. 

As I approach the South Pole, the temperature drops, the architecture ages, and the noise of the city fades into the gentle quiet of an abandoned college town. 

Dunedin is home to the University of Otago, one of the most beautiful campuses in the world. During the summer months (December through February), the students head off to explore the country and Dunedin waits quietly for their return. The few remaining summer school students can hear the soft scuff of their shoes as they journey to class in peaceful silence. Only during meals in the dorms' cafeteria will you hear the cacophony of noise that you'd expect in a college town.

University of Otago, Dunedin
I sit on the steps of the hillside facing a breathtaking building and listen to the toll of the clocktower, basking in the broad daylight peeking through the clouds at 8 PM.

The sky is covered in clouds, shielding my porcelain skin from the deadly rays of the New Zealand sun. Light rain kisses my face, but I am too content here to seek shelter. 

A German couple behind me, well into their 60's, holds hands as they cross a baby-blue bridge over the creek rumbling in front of me. I smile at their easy conversation, even if I can't understand a word. 

I wander through treasure troves of second-hand bookstores sprinkled through the sleepy town. tucked away at the top of a ladder in a far corner of the store, hidden behind precariously balanced stacks of old novels, is a gorgeous red binding of an old classic. It's an old copy of Sherlock Holmes, and I am instantly mesmerized by the cursive scribbles in the margins. Even though I've got an entire bag full of old books by now, I take this one home with me and thank the shy bookkeeper with a smile. 

I'm wearing a hat from a thrift store across the street. For every commercial business along this road, there are four more small, local shops surrounding it. Of those four, one of them is usually a charitable organization with profits donated to the Red Cross, or some other worthy cause. I don't really need another beanie, but the donations go to charity, so I feel a bit better about the purchase.

There is a toy shop placed (wisely) beside a novelty candy shop called Grannie Annie's. I may or may not spend too much money satisfying my curiosity in these quirky places before I head to the heart of the city. I weave through the farmer's market, teeming with people and their stands of fresh food, beeswax, plants, and dairy. 

Unfortunately, I don't have time for that right now.

I'm looking for Dunedin's history, culture, and art.

Toitū Otago Settlers Museum, Dunedin

I wander through museum after museum, gallery after gallery, lingering too long at some exhibits,  skimming past others on my quest to experience everything. The exhibits are fascinating and interactive, capturing my attention with things I can touch and read like a curious child. Pulling me into the depths of Maori culture, these places hold me captive for hours. 

Allie Simpson


Sometimes, I stare at the art and come up with all kinds of fancy things to appreciate.

The colors are vibrant and lively, a staple of the New Zealand art style. The texture of the paintings is also a unique aspect of these artists. 


Other times, the pieces are too abstract to even try, so I just stand there, nod appreciatively as though I know what's going on, and walk away.




St. Paul's Cathedral
Above the beautiful buildings of the city rise the steeples of ancient cathedrals. They stand at each corner of the city, impossible to miss no matter where you wander. I don't feel the same spirit there that I do in my own church, but I do feel a sense of humble awe at the majesty and history of the cathedral itself.

I snap pictures of the stained-glass and ornate towers but quickly stash my camera away to sit in a padded pew and take in the thundering of the organ. 




When I can't put off my hunger any longer, I make my way back to the Univerisity under a pink and purple sky. I run my fingers along ivy-covered brick walls and weave through enormous trees, stepping on the cobblestones of the road one at a time.

I make my way home.

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